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Learn new information about Ralph Lauren. Another fast fashion environmental problem that bioengineering could address is dyes, Schiros says. Commercial textile dying uses approximately 3, human-made chemicals, including lead- and petroleum-based substances, according to the Swedish Chemicals Agency pdf. Of these, the agency was able to detect 2, in finished clothing products. Five percent of the chemicals found are potentially hazardous to the environment and 10 percent of the 2, chemicals found in finished clothes may harm human health, the agency says.

Making these coloring agents adhere to fabric also often involves using poisonous solvents, fixing agents, salts and large quantities of water.

Lab animals exposed to some of these dyes exhibit adverse health effects, including allergic reactions as well as reproductive and growth problems pdf. Some researchers think bacteria might also help mitigate the dye problem. Innovators including Cecilia Raspanti, co-founder of TextileLab Amsterdam ; Laura Luchtman, owner of textile and design studio Kukka ; and Natsai Audrey Chieza, founder of biodesign lab and creative research agency Faber Futures are using naturally pigmented bacteria to dye natural and bioengineered textiles.

Luchtman says her process involves autoclaving a textile to prevent contamination, then pouring a liquid medium filled with bacterial nutrients over the textile in a container. Next she exposes the soaked textile to bacteria and leaves it in a climate-controlled chamber for three days. Finally she sterilizes the textile again, rinses it with a gentle laundry detergent to wash out the smell of the bacterial medium, then lets it dry.

Bacterial dyes can be applied in a variety of colors and patterns, are nontoxic and require at least 20 percent less water, Chieza says. But significant challenges remain in using such techniques to replace both textiles woven with nonbiodgradable human-made fibers and dyes made from problematic chemicals.

Producing bioengineered materials durable enough to stand up to normal wear and tear is a major hurdle, Schiros says.

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